How to: DirecTV H20 Fan Installation..COOL!

[notanewbie]

Since no one commented on my inquiries on the other thread, I decided to start a new thread showing step by step instructions, including parts, to get your H20 running COOL from extremely HOT. Please note that I do not know if this will void your warrantee so, proceed at your own risk but, since you are not modifying any D* parts or equipment I dont think it will void anything.

First get your run of the mill USB cord from any crappy peripheral device you have. I found one lying around in my box o' cables and just cut one end off. Good news is that if you mess up, you still have the other half to play with. Any USB plug that fits will do, the cheaper the better.

Once you cut the cable in half, you will need to strip it down to the 4 internal wires. A simple braided shield surrounds the 4 wires so just peel it back and carefully trim off the braided wire and foil until you see these 4 wires:


The only wires you will need are the black and the red so, snip off the green and white, those are the power colors, the others (green and white) transmit data.


Now you need to strip the ends of the USB wires to connect to the ends of the Fan wires. Again, red goes to the red and black to the black. The fan I used was purchased at Radio Shack for $7, here is the box it came in:


The fan comes set up to use with a PC so you will just need to snip off the cables from the connector. (see photo) The cables to snip are the thin red and black. You can snip them anywhere but, I snipped them close the the connector (in case I had to return it) but you will have plenty of excess wire to play with.

[notanewbie]

I mounted the fan where I felt it would have the best impact on the temperature, right above the heat sinks. The heat sinks are in the photo below and are the silver metal ribbed pieces in the middle of the photo.



All you need to do is guesstimate where the cover of the H20 sits above those heat sinks. You can measure it out with a ruler, stencil the shape on the cover or just wing it. I winged it but used a pencil to mark the hole fans on the cover so I knew where to drill. Oh yes, you will need to drill out a tiny hole in the H20's top cover so the bolts (that come with the fan for free) can thread down and hold the fan to the cover. Luckily, there are so many slits in the case that you cant really mess up, just drill between the 2 vents and the hole will be large enough. Put the screws through the holes on the case, line them up with the holes on the fan body and tighten up the nuts. Now your fan and case are as one. NOTE: Drill the holes with the case UPSIDE DOWN. The downward force of the drill will cause the case to bend so, drill it from the inside of the case out with the top of the case on a flat surface.




At this point you have the fan attached to the cover of the H20 and a 1 foot long dangling piece of cable. That cable need to be pulled up through the top of the case, think sewing, and pulled out of the top so it is near the USB port located on the back LEFT of the unit. Once you find the correct slot you wish to thread it through MEASURE (by eye is fine) how much cable you actually need and cut the excess. You can and should leave about 1 extra inch in case you mess up the connection between the fan wires and the USB wires.

Now this is the part that requires a little skill with a soldering iron. If you dont have one, you can just as easily twist them together and tape them or purchase those crimp thingys that you insert both cables into and crimp down to make the connection. Solder the black cable of the fan to the black cable of the USB and the red to the red. Tape it up, shrink tube it or whatever and you are done sukkas!

Here is the final result:

[HDTVFanAtic]

Nice work - and should be totally removable so no sign of it if it blows up and DTV gets it back

[Ramsrule]

well done! The step by step instructions should allow for almost anyone that can use a screw driver to be able to complete this mod.

[thedonn]

im going to do this mod with some type of wire instead of the screws. Ill tie the wires in a loop in and out of where the the screws go but the rest will be exactly the same. this was a good post. I felt my case and it was super hot but I looked and verified its exactly the same as yours.

[jamesflames]

I like the using looped wire idea also but there is another option. You can buy a laptop cooling pad that is usb powered. Simply place the pad on top of the H20 and insert the usb plug. It's the same price if you don't already own soldering equipment (iron, solder). And if you ever get a new receiver as long as it vents from the top and has a usb input it's universal.

[cigarguy]

2 points:

The Don: You could try and use zip ties or cable ties (like for trash bags) but maybe the fan will rattle against the case if it isnt secure. Not saying ti will, just saying it might.

JF: Those laptop cooling pads are very expensive and hardly under 10 bucks like this mod seems to be. Also, the heat isnt coming from the bottom it is coming from the inside and heating the top of the case so I am not certain an bottom cooled solution would even work in this case.

You mentioned using it on the top but then you would completely cover the vent holes in the case that allow the hot air (that rises) to escape. That cant be a good idea.

PC's heat is generated from the bottom of the laptop but, the H20 has heat within the unit that wont be reached by a bottom chilled or top chilled device.

[homerx]

Wow, the case does get hot and my h20 is fully exposed on the top. I might have to try this

Prehaps you could soder thr fan directly to the inside of the usb jack. Then ad a small switch on the back....
I just don't like seeing a cable hanging out of the case. And I think if your carefull about the soder it wouldn't show if removed

[greywolf]

The more things change, the more they stay the same. It's the Hughes E86 fan fix revisited from 5 years ago.

[mikelets456]

What temperature differential are you getting with the fan Vs without it ? 10 deg? 15 Deg?

[jamesflames]

Cigarguy, here is my assessment:

Mod: To do the mod you have to buy the fan, usb cable (if you don't have a spare one), a soldering iron and solder. And for perfectionists solder braid will be necessary to de-solder anything that was soldered on accident. This will end up costing more than the $10 you suggested. It also requires opening up the receiver.

Laptop Cooling Pad: Unpack, place on top of receiver, plug in and you're done! You can get a cooling pad for less than $15.00 with some shopping around. It's non-intrusive and easy to move from one receiver to another. Downstairs watching tV? Use it there. Going to bed? Unplug and bring it to the bedroom. As long as you have usb power, it's universal.

Now I haven't used the laptop cooling pad. It was suggested on another thread. But the way it is explained, the fan side faces downward which will suck the hot air out of the receiver. The pad then vests the air out through it's back. Again, itt was suggested elsewhere and I plan to try it. I get my H20's tomorrow. If it doesn't work well, I'll simply return the pad. Then I'll consider the mod. I'll post my findings soon.

[cigarguy]

Ok, let me try and explain this to you one more time.

A laptop cooler is designed to blow air UP from the bottom of your laptop up towards the sky. If it sat beneath the laptop and blew DOWN then the hot air would be venting onto your legs, defeating the purpose of the cooler.

Now, your intention is to place the cooler pad UPSIDE DOWN and ON TOP OF THE ENTIRE H20 to try and suck the hot air out of the case.

Problem 1: You are blocking every single one of the case vent holes with this pad actually reducing natural hot air flow upwards
Problem 2: You are using the pad OPPOSITE of the way it was designed. Instead of being on the bottom blowing cool air upwards it is being used on top of the unit sucking air out of the case.
Problem 3: Depending on where the fans on the pad are located you may or may not be above an opening in the top of the case. If you are then its lined up but, if not then that fan will be unable to pull air from a flat solid lid.

Why dont you go ahead and try it and post your results back on this thread?

As far as solder and soldering irons, you dont HAVE to use them. A simple plastic wing nut from any hardware store for a nickel can twist both cables together and conduct current. You could even hide those inside of the case to make it look clean but, solder is not a necessity.

[wrwine3]

I have a Targus laptop cooling pad. It pulls air into the pad, away from a laptop and out the back. A laptop does not lay completely flat on the pad. When you place a laptop on it, there is a little bit of space between them.

I agree there is a possibility it could raise the temperature by blocking the vents. Laptops do not have vents in the bottom of their cases. If you use a cooling pad with enough (large) fans, it seems reasonable to me that it would work.

[markrubin]

notanewbie

excellent thread

I think this approach is much preferred over the cooling pad for reasons given

[ML97]

Is the fan sucking air out of the box, or blowing air into it? I guess you could switch the polarity of the wires to do either. I'm wondering which is better, does the front of the case have vents that would allow fresh air to be pulled in? If so then pulling the hot air out may be the best.

Either way, this is a great mod. I will be getting my D* installed tomorrow(after waiting almost 2 weeks!) I will be sure to try this after the tech leaves.

[videophiles]

Can you really solder the wires to the USB port inside?

[ISO Perfect HDTV]

Originally Posted by HDTVFanAtic

Nice work - and should be totally removable so no sign of it if it blows up and DTV gets it back

well...... you do need to drill holes for the screw and they may be noticable to inspection...........

But here is my question, we do mod computers cause the excessive heat will slow the cpu down or even cause it to crush (not to mention overclocking).........What's the reason to cool down the H20? is the heat causing any stability issues? If so wouldn't that be a manufacturing defect? If not why mod it?

[cigarguy]

You dont need to drill the case, you could do it with velcro, tie wraps, zip ties or even use thinner screws that will fit without modifying the case.

I did it because I felt the heat was dangerous to the longevity of the H20 itself and to the other components in the rack. I probably could have left it alone but, it was fun, cost under 10 bucks and keeping it cool doesnt hurt.

[wolfman730]

Originally Posted by ISO Perfect HDTV

well...... you do need to drill holes for the screw and they may be noticable to inspection...........

But here is my question, we do mod computers cause the excessive heat will slow the cpu down or even cause it to crush (not to mention overclocking).........What's the reason to cool down the H20? is the heat causing any stability issues? If so wouldn't that be a manufacturing defect? If not why mod it?

Good Point.

[TheRatPatrol]

Originally Posted by ML97

Is the fan sucking air out of the box, or blowing air into it?

This is what I want to know too. Should the fan be blowing air in or sucking air out?

Thanks.

[trich]

http://w.hdbeat.com/2006/07/21/your-...install-a-fan/

notanewbie, you have made the big time with your heat fix. AVS got a plug too.

[markrubin]

[cigarguy]

Nice!!

[cbearnm]

Originally Posted by ISO Perfect HDTV

But here is my question, we do mod computers cause the excessive heat will slow the cpu down or even cause it to crush (not to mention overclocking).........What's the reason to cool down the H20? is the heat causing any stability issues? If so wouldn't that be a manufacturing defect? If not why mod it?

Really, what is a TiVo, but a specialized computer? As I recall, it runs a proprietary version of Linux and has a kernel that is more of a single use, rather than a multi purpose OS.
I would think the same concerns would apply here. Anything that makes the box run cooler is goingt o make it run more stable and lengthen it's life. Just like a PC, excess heat is not a good thing, yet it would not rise to the level of being a design defect.
I would think that you want the fan to blow air away from the heat sink (and exiting the case), thus pulling cooler air across it. While this will make the exhaust feel warmer, if it's running properly, that is what you want. To truly test the cooling effect, use the reported temp from your system info from the menu. Remember the warmer the air that is coming out, the better it is working. Seems kind of backward, but give it some thought.
I really like the design and with my particular install, I have room outside the case to externally mount the fan. This will pull the air that is naturally rising out more quickly and will not be forcing heated air against the solid parts of the grill. This also prevents me from adding something else into the case (not a problem for me, but why do it if not necessary.)
I'll post my temperature readings when I have a chance to test it.

[Audioman1]

If you put it on the inside you will have to have it blowing in, If you put it on the outside you will have to have it blowing out, other wise the air flow will be blocked by the case since the holes arn't big enough to blow air through. I think thats how it works.

[cigarguy]

This fan, or any fan, has the ability to do both (blow in or out) depending on which side faces up and which faces down. In this case, the fan is PULLING air from within the case and exhausting it OUT of the case. This draws the hot air out of the case and pulls cool air across the board as it "sucks" out the heat.

Had the fan been installed inside the caase but with the direction reversed, it would be pulling air from OUTSIDE of the case and blowing it into the unit. There are more than enough vents on the case to pull air in even with the fan inside the case.

[wolfman730]

I did this MOD. with a fan I purchased at BestBuy. Installed it inside the case above the heat sinks and attached it with plastic cable ties. With the wires from the fan being so skinny there is enough room between the top and back to bring the wires through so they don't come out the top of the unit. It is set up to pull air out of the case and is keeping the temp. much lower. Well worth it.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1074788291413

[Cap'n Preshoot]

Originally Posted by greywolf

The more things change, the more they stay the same. It's the Hughes E86 fan fix revisited from 5 years ago.

You don't happen to have that info do you? I still have an E86 that could sure use some cooling. Thanks.

[Cap'n Preshoot]

If at all possible you want the fan inside the case and blowing on the heatsink(s) to disipate the heat. As another poster mentioned, sucking the air out runs into the problem of the vent holes in the case seriously constricting the air flow. I wouldn't be so concerned about exhausting the heat as I would be about getting whatever air is already inside the case to get moving.

That said, the article is great but mounting the fan snug against the inside surface of the case still results in markedly constricted airflow. It might be better to put some spacers between the fan and the case, ¼" if there's room or whatever you can squeeze in. Merely my 2¢ worth.

[wolfman730]

You want the fan to pull the hot air out of the unit not push it back in.